Bovelacci Installation Guide Picture 1


1.1      Tools / Equipment

In the Toolbox:                                                                       

  • Hammer
  • Panel Pins
  • Fluted concrete nails
  • Pencil
  • Tape Measure
  • Utility knife
  • Paint Scraper
  • Chalk Line
  • Sand-paper (100 / 120grit)

Equipment Required:                                                                         

  • Mitre Box & Fine Tooth Saw
  • Ladders (x2)
  • Trestle table or work surface


  • Bucket & Water
  • Sponge


Ensure that surfaces are free from dust, grit and dirt; they must be clean and un-greased.


3.1      Chalk Line

Using a gauge, mark off in pencil, and spring a chalk line.

Tip:   If the ceiling is not perfectly level measure from the lowest point. Mark the entire room before commencing cornicing. Any compensation required due to out-of-level or bowed ceilings will become evident.

3.2      Mitres

The cornice is placed in the mitre box at 45 degrees, and then a 45 degree cut is applied over this.

There are 4 basic cuts: Inside corner Left & Right /Outside cornice Left & Right

Since there are only 2 directions to the mitre box, the “inside” and “outside” cut is determined by which side of the cut is discarded, and which is used.

Measure, and cut the first length.

3.3      Apply Adhesive

Adhesive is generally applied by means of a paint scraper along the grooved glue-bed. 5mm thick is sufficient. A common error is to use too much adhesive. The cornice is light – it will not fall off!

All in-line butt joins and mitres must have glue between the two joined sections. This forms an expansion joint and ensures adhesion between the two mouldings.

Tip: The following adhesives should not be used: Silicone & contact adhesive.

Tip: Leaving the glue slightly thicker to the outside of the glue bed minimizes the amount of filling required.

3.4      Paste Onto Wall

Place the base of the cornice onto the chalk-line and press gently with splayed fingers.

3.5      Filling & Cleaning

Any gaps between wall and cornice must be filled with the Polystyrene Adhesive / Filler and squared off with a scraper. A damp sponge is then used to clean the wall and the cornice.

3.8      Aligning & Pinning

Once a section is complete, ensure that cornice lengths are lined up. If a length of cornice does not remain perfectly in position, pin it with panel pins. In severe instances, a concrete nail through the cornice will pin it in position until adhesive has set (24 Hours)

Correcting alignment whilst the job is still wet can save a lot of sanding time! It is very simple to adjust cornices while still wet: Dry cornices will need replacing!

If one piece of cornice stands out higher than the other, use a small wedge to bring the lower piece out a little. Cut a wedge from scraps, and insert under cornice.   Push the wedge deeper until the cornice lengths are flush with each other, and then cut off with a utility knife.

On long walls, climb the ladder and run your eye down the length of the completed wall. Any undulations in the cornice line will be visible.

3.9      Sanding

Allow at least 12 hours to dry. Sand the joins lightly with 100-120grit sandpaper. Using a small amount of glue, “smudge” across the join to mask it using a finger or a sponge.

Tip: Apply additional adhesive as a filler to the joins to provide a better finish.

Tip: For perfect results, a second sanding with fine water paper is recommended.

Once painted, a well-finished join will be invisible.


Any Acrylic PVA or water based paint is recommended.

NB – Do not use solvent based paints / products as these will damage the polystyrene cornice.

Tip: Paints with a matt finish hide the joins better than high gloss or sheen.



If you have any further questions or would like to place an order, call us to talk to one of our consultants or we will gladly set up an appointment to meet up with you.